What Does Natural Mean?
So, what exactly does "natural" mean? Is it a distinct category or a percentage?
When I research ingredients on various websites, I notice that they often rate them differently and don't properly evaluate the potential hazards versus the risks.
Have you ever noticed that Sephora's definitions of clean or natural are different from those of EWG or Yuka's? (just to name a few).
Yet brands pay to get their products verified. Why? Marketing. It's that simple.
I think that the concept behind these organizations is very important, but unfortunately, it has created a lot of confusion in the industry, particularly for those who haven't had the chance to learn about these topics. Regrettably, this is the majority of the public.
It's disheartening when customers claim that they only use natural and clean skincare, yet when I inquire how they define those terms, they have a hard time explaining.
For example, many so-called "clean and natural beauty" products contain "fragrance" as an ingredient which can actually include a number of irritating substances.
Unfortunately, consumers don't get to see this information. But as someone who works closely with the labs, I get to ask a lot of questions and see the allergen declarations that show what's in the formulations. For example fragrance is not just one ingredient, it's typically composed of a complex mixture of dozens of chemicals.
Some of the allergens that can be found in fragrances include linalool, benzyl benzoate, citronellol, coumarin, eugenol, and more. While fragrances can be formulated to exclude these allergens, most do not. Now I will note that some plants naturally contain linalool because of their fragrance. This is normally from the addition of essential oils in formulas. But, they can still be highly irritating to some sensitive skin types. It’s up to consumers to decide whether or not they want to use products that contain fragrances, and to carefully read ingredient labels before making a purchase.
Now, I'll reiterate that just because it's a chemical, does not mean it's toxic. Toxic chemicals are illegal. Canada has strict guidelines on what ingredients you can use, and at what percentage. All products for sale should be reviewed by an educated and trained QAO (Quality Assurance Officer) or RAO (Regulatory Affairs Officer).
What Does Natural or Clean Mean When It Comes to Plant Extraction?
Extraction is a complex process because there are so many different types. Steam distillation, reflux extraction and maceration, just to name a few.
What’s important to note is that you can't just extract something from a root or leaf without a process that includes other ingredients. Additionally, not all manufacturers or companies disclose what that extract is extracted into, which can be problematic for consumers. This issue is similar to what we see in the food industry.
Cellular extraction is an incredible process that harnesses water-soluble plant extracts into a liquid matrix without compromising the plant matter. Essentially it's a form of extracting plant matter that keeps the active ingredients, well, active! And although we use a ton of incredible natural plant ingredients, we do not market ourselves as "natural’ or “clean,” for that very reason.
This is because an extract isn't a single ingredient. Take Licorice Root. How was it extracted? Was it done using alcohol, distillation with water and glycerin, or with butylene glycol and preservatives?
Take Ethanol for example. Is alcohol a “natural” ingredient?
Well, it is present in low levels in the environment, and is technically the “natural” result of the fermentation of plants, but was the process of creating it natural?
My point is, it’s complex, some may say yes, and some may say no, but there are no guidelines to tell people what is the right answer. And that is the problem.
If a product claims to be 100% extract, technically they are not lying, but they are also not disclosing the other ingredients used to create the extract. Every ingredient should be listed, and to be fair, the industry is slowly improving in this regard.
However, what is worrying is how different organizations interpret these words. Who is right? Which organization sets the baseline for regulation?
This industry is fascinating but complex. While there is no right or wrong in your decisions to use products with or without certain ingredients, our goal is simply to make you more informed.
So what is natural?
A plant is natural but how we extract, refine, and harness the power of that plant requires “unnatural” products or processes. If it was truly toxic, we would not be able to manufacture and sell our products in Canada nor could we make them in South Korea, the skincare capital of the world.
What Does Clean Mean?
The term "clean" skincare has become increasingly popular in recent years, with many consumers seeking out products that are marketed as "clean" or "natural."
While the intention behind this trend may be good - to use products that are free from harmful or toxic ingredients - the term itself is vague and can be misleading. In reality, there is no official definition of what constitutes a "clean" skincare product. Unlike terms like "organic" or "non-toxic," which have specific standards set by regulatory bodies, "clean" is a marketing term that can be used by any brand, regardless of the actual ingredients in their products.
A few large beauty labels actually got in hot water over this recently…I’ll let you google if you’re interested.
This lack of regulation means that some brands may use the term "clean" to make their products sound more appealing, without actually making any meaningful changes to the formula. In other cases, brands may use the term to imply that their products are free from certain ingredients, such as parabens or sulfates, when in fact they may still contain other potentially controversial ingredients. The bottom line is that the term "clean" skincare is too vague to be truly meaningful. Instead, consumers should focus on reading ingredient lists and doing research on specific ingredients to determine which products are best for their bodies and effective at targeting skincare concerns.
We currently live in a world, where, in my opinion, you have to be able to flexibly recognize the analytical and scientific facts of ingredients, with a more holistic take on what's best for your body.
Dermatologists can go through, on average, 13 years of education to be able to confidently tell us what to safely use on our skin. They are highly qualified to do so, and their recommendations are often spot on. However, just like all professionals, experts, and well, humans in general, they don’t have all the answers, so, in my opinion it’s important to analyze their suggestions while finding a symbiotic relationship between medical and holistic ingredients as well as health and beauty.
So although I’m not able to explain what “clean” or “natural” skincare is by definition, I hope I was able to clarify the complexity of these terms and why it’s so important to ask questions and educate ourselves.
Thanks for reading, hope you learned a few things!
Love LK
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